A scientific review sheds new light on idealistic female beauty standards and the negative attitudes towards cosmetic surgery despite its surging popularity.

In a recent review of the scientific literature, researchers at the University of Melbourne and the University of Queensland sought to understand more about the so-called “cosmetic surgery paradox” – the phenomenon by which modern women are both encouraged to undergo cosmetic surgery and condemned for doing so. It is the first to integrate theoretical and empirical evidence into a cohesive narrative that explains how cosmetic surgery remains secretive, stigmatised and moralised despite its surging popularity.

Current beauty ideals

Beauty ideals are at the core of the cosmetic surgery paradox, with modern women feeling compelled to meet near-impossible standards of beauty. While beauty ideals have always existed, women today are continually exposed to them and are taught to view their body as a “problem” that “needs to be fixed”.

The authors note the three main contributors are: cosmetic surgery advertising, which promotes existing beauty ideals and shapes future beauty ideals; reality TV like Keeping Up With the Kardashians and “makeover” shows which reinforce the idea that deviations from the beauty ideal are abnormal (eg, larger nose or smaller breasts) and cosmetic surgery is a suitable “treatment”; and, interestingly, government policy in countries such as Brazil and South Korea where cosmetic surgery is often government subsidised in an attempt to break down class barriers.

The review, which synthesised feminist dialogue, recent research and real-world case studies, argues that female beauty standards account for both the growing popularity of cosmetic surgery and also its lack of mainstream acceptance.

While beauty ideals have always existed, women today are continually exposed to them and are taught to view their body as a “problem” that “needs to be fixed”.

Cosmetic surgery as unnatural, unjust

The review analysed the negative attitudes toward cosmetic surgery, despite its increasing popularity. The authors point to three main causes: concerns about wellbeing, cosmetic surgery as unnatural, and cosmetic surgery as unjust.

In a blog for PsychologyToday.com, Jessica M Alleva Ph.D. summarised the authors’ reasons:

Concerns about wellbeing

Even though rates of complications are typically low, cosmetic surgery does carry health risks. Unlike other medical procedures, cosmetic surgery is not considered necessary and many people may believe cosmetic surgery is not justified.

Cosmetic surgery as unnatural

The authors describe the naturalistic fallacy that underpins negative attitudes to cosmetic surgery— namely, the ingrained belief that that which is natural (vs unnatural) is good and should be revered.

The naturalistic fallacy is reflected in current beauty ideals, where “natural beauty” is seen as good. Numerous studies show that people view cosmetic surgery in a negative light, precisely because they view it to be unnatural. For example, in South Korea, a country where cosmetic surgery is common, cosmetic surgery is only considered acceptable when the outcome looks “natural”. In contrast, in cases where the outcome does not look natural, people describe facing condemnation and stigmatisation. Other studies show that people who view cosmetic surgery as wrong justify their beliefs based on the fact that cosmetic surgery “violated the body’s sanctity”, the authors note.

Cosmetic surgery as unjust

There is evidence to suggest that cosmetic surgery is viewed negatively because it is perceived to give people an unfair advantage over others. As well, people may view cosmetic surgery as unjust because they believe it to be a “lazy way out” (eg, liposuction vs calorie controlling and exercise).

To summarise, while current beauty ideals are unrealistic, these same ideals also contribute to widespread negative attitudes towards cosmetic surgery and those who have procedures – that cosmetic surgery is an unjustifiable risk to health and wellbeing, is an “unnatural” form of beauty and is unjust. It’s essentially a case of “you’re damned if you do and damned if you don’t”.

The authors conclude their review with valuable directions for future research, such as conducting more experiments across genders and across different cultures around the world. AMP

SOURCEBonell, S., Barlow, F. K., & Griffiths, S. (2021). The cosmetic surgery paradox: Toward a contemporary understanding of cosmetic surgery popularisation and attitudes. Body Image, 38, 230-240.
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