We speak to five leading practitioners from across Australia and New Zealand to get a round-up of last year’s most popular treatments and trends, plus challenges predicted for 2023 and beyond.
Dr Steven Liew
Plastic Surgeon, Sydney
What were the most in-demand cosmetic procedures in your practice in 2022?
For Shape Clinic, the most in-demand surgical procedures were facelifts, upper eyelid surgery and lip lift surgery.
What were the top priorities of your patients?
Results-driven, natural-looking outcomes. They are seeking results that look good, but look so natural that no one can tell they’ve had anything “done”.
What were the most surprising trends or requests this year?
The most surprising has been the rising number of women who have had numerous filler treatments, so much so they claim they don’t look like themselves anymore. As a result, they are seeking a more permanent solution to the ageing process, such as facelift surgery, upper and lower blepharoplasty, and dissolving the fillers and replacing with fat grafting.
This, to me, is not surprising as we know cumulatively fillers can last a long time. Fillers can also be “overdone”, rather than being used very selectively and judiciously.
What were your greatest lessons learned from the COVID-19 pandemic?
Life is full of obstacles and COVID is just another obstacle, albeit something we’ve never seen before. If we are able to think sensibly and have the support of our family and team, we are unstoppable.
What are you most proud of this year?
First, running our successful second AESTHETICS conference, with 600 attendees. We managed to sell these 600 tickets in less than three days.
Second, we have moved into our new Shape Clinic. This is years in the making and I am proud to have this space for my patients and my staff; a space that is understated and serene so that I am able to provide a first-class aesthetic experience to all my patients. Third, to be able to set up an educational centre, the Aesthetic Centre for Education (A.C.E), for future masterclasses for doctors, nurses and injectors. Watch this space!
Do you think global economic uncertainty will put the brakes on demand for aesthetic procedures?
It depends on the demographics.
If we think back to the GFC in 2007-8, some sectors of the aesthetic industry suffered, but on a personal level my clinic saw a boom.
I think non-surgical procedures will continue to be in high demand, albeit not large multiple-syringe procedures. I think patients will still find a way to enhance their appearance – when you feel better in yourself, mentally you will be better able to cope with what life throws at you.
What other challenges do you foresee in the coming year for the aesthetics industry?
I like to think that the aesthetics industry will be better regulated so that we all can do our part to improve the standard of our industry and to get rid of all the rogue practitioners. We need to practice within an ethical industry that holds the patient as the highest priority. After all, our patients are mothers and fathers, sons and daughters, and wives, husbands and partners and should be treated with the utmost respect and dignity.
What are you most excited about for 2023 and beyond?
First, what our new Shape Clinic can bring to the industry in Australia, New Zealand, Asia and Pacific region. Watch this space.
Second, AESTHETICS 2023 promises to be an exciting event, one in which everyone can learn.
Dr Gabrielle Caswell
Cosmetic Physician, NSW & QLD
What were the most in-demand cosmetic procedures in your practice in 2022?
By a long shot, botulinum toxin has roared back into popularity. The profession saw a huge uptick once the COVID restrictions were lifted, which was credited to the increase in Zoom interactions. But it has continued, and perhaps as it is the most accessible treatment and not a permanent solution, it is maybe the safest to initiate the journey into appearance medicine.
What were the top priorities of your patients?
I think looking well for their age, not necessarily looking ageless, is a mature trend out of 20 years or so of aesthetic medicine options. Usually that takes a range of treatments to treat each individual concern, which builds to a ‘whole’.
What were the most surprising trends or requests this year? Less lip; people are returning to a more natural look. We are, perhaps, moving past the perfect selfie to imperfect but perfect reality.
What were your greatest lessons learned from the COVID-19 pandemic?
It was interesting to see who does and does not cope with isolation and loss of their time – keeping markers, once daily routines and work habits are changed. For someone like me, I did quip at the time, as long as I have my books, internet and nightly G and T, I am happy. Others I noted however drifted from their anchor points.
If nothing else, it was an interesting lesson in how social primates operate best in cooperative groups, and those groups contribute more to the individual psyche and wellbeing than you expect.
What are you most proud of this year?
Though the ACAM board is well distributed throughout Australia, we are very proud of initiating three new fellowship pathways with our internationally recognised educational partners, Queen Mary University of London and University of Wales. ACAM has also seen a growth of around 60% in membership and is working to completing its CPD Homes application. This validates ACAM’s reshaping of aesthetic education, ensuring legitimacy and credibility in the aesthetic profession. It has been a whole-board project and we are all proud of the outcome.
Do you think global economic uncertainty will put the brakes on demand for aesthetic procedures?
I think that botulinum toxin is the new ‘lipstick’ index. In previous times of economic woe, when all retail items declined, lipstick purchases went up. There seems no abatement in botulinum treatment numbers and though not the cheapest treatment, people budget because it does the ‘job’ well.
Larger surgical procedures are planned well in advance, so I would not expect a lag for a couple of years. The smaller but significant procedures which require downtime and recovery, such as laser resurfacing, may reduce in numbers with people swapping to well-designed cosmeceuticals as options to carry them through and prepare their skin for the right timing of treatment.
What other challenges do you foresee in the coming year for the aesthetics industry? Aesthetics is a rapidly evolving area of medicine and we need to be on top of evolving technology from many sectors (medicine, cosmeceuticals, laser and light physics to name a few). Keeping abreast with new technology and techniques is the exciting part of aesthetics, and it is only through education that this is achieved.
I think that education is cardinal; as we learn and teach more, we appreciate there is more to know. Providing quality education will be the challenge in the foreseeable future and, from an individual’s perspective, determining what quality education is may be the difficulty.
What are you most excited about for 2023 and beyond?
Apart from wishing for fewer global traumas, less rain and more ‘normality’, I am excited about the prospect of the CPD Homes program. It will give an opportunity for aesthetic physicians to concentrate on specific CPD related to our craft group and have their education in this area recognised. The modernised and growing education sector is something that really bloomed during COVID-19 lockdown, but it allows our spread- out members to access high-quality education and have a great sense of belonging to the college, wherever they are.
Dr Mary Dingley
Cosmetic Physician, Brisbane
What were the most in-demand cosmetic procedures in your practice in 2022?
Our most frequently performed procedures continue to be injectable treatments, although body contouring has taken a big step forward.
What were the top priorities of your patients?
While many were working from home and wearing masks, they were prepared to accept a little more downtime than pre-COVID and this has continued to a certain extent as it is still acceptable to wear masks and work from home, at least for a period of time. It seems to have opened patients’ eyes to consider some new or more-involved treatments than before, although I think patients still don’t want major downtime, if they can avoid it.
What were the most surprising trends or requests this year?
I think I’ve been around for too long to be surprised by patients.
What were your greatest lessons learned from the pandemic?
Being in Queensland, we had some very strict lockdowns, which weren’t as long as in some other states, although we were isolated to some extent, which could prove problematic if service staff (for lasers, etc) were in other states.
We had some friends pass away during lockdown, and it brings it home how much they meant to us and we couldn’t relay that in person.
My most grateful lesson is that my husband, Roman, and I really do get along very well and we quite enjoyed spending time alone at home together, which augurs well for the future!
What are you most proud of this year?
I am most proud of my Cosmetic Medicine Centre team. They’ve been loyal and flexible, filling in for each other if someone was off sick or isolating, and managing the changing schedule of patients each day. They’ve adopted and fostered new treatments and processes to cope with the changing clinical landscape and come out with an improved offering for our patients.
Do you think global economic uncertainty will put the brakes on demand for aesthetic procedures?
Historically, the cosmetic field has done well through times of hardship as what we do makes people feel better about themselves, so, hopefully, this will continue into the future. There may certainly be some patients who will hold off on things or reduce their participation in cosmetic medicine, but I’m hoping that our practices will survive well and still be able to offer support to all our patients, even if their budgets are more constrained.
What other challenges do you foresee in the coming year for the aesthetics industry?
Supply issues have seen us have to wait for some things coming from oversees or for the manufacture of some devices. In Australia we’ve often had to wait for the TGA to approve certain medicines or devices but it seems we now also have to wait for things to be made and delivered as basic ingredients are in short supply and delivery via air or sea is often delayed.
What are you most excited about for 2023 and beyond?
It’s great that travel has started up again! It’s not great how much it costs! I’ve fortunately been in a position to travel and speak at some overseas conferences already. I’m looking forward to catching up with overseas colleagues, family and friends and, hopefully, have flights return to reasonable prices soon.
I’ve also been following the development of some promising new technologies which I’m looking forward to implementing in Australia.
Dr Sean Arendse
Cosmetic Physician, Melbourne
What were the most in-demand procedures in your practice in 2022?
One of the most in-demand cosmetic procedures this year was Profhilo.
What were the top priorities of your patients?
Treatments that delivered what they say they would, with minimal pain and downtime.
What were the most surprising trends or requests this year? Most surprising trends were the rise of threads. Again!
What were your greatest lessons learned from the pandemic?
To try to spend more time away from the clinic with people you love, and don’t sweat the
small stuff.
What are you most proud of this year?
That we made it through the past two years of lockdown with a business where our staff and clients are happy and look forward to seeing each other.
Do you think global economic uncertainty will put the brakes on demand for aesthetic procedures?
I don’t think so. People in the past couple of years have realised that when you look your best, this has an effect on your confidence and ultimately your mood.
What other challenges do you foresee in the coming year for the aesthetics industry?
We have already seen issues with supply of products, especially those manufactured overseas, so I expect some of the same.
What are you most excited about for 2023 and beyond?
EmFace technology and some new botulinum toxins, as well as not being put back into lockdown!
Dr Sarah Hart
Cosmetic Doctor, Auckland
What were the most in-demand cosmetic procedures in your practice in 2022?
I only perform injectables. Nothing else! I do 50/50 toxin and fillers, which I think is probably more fillers than most practitioners.
What were the top priorities of your patients?
My patients prioritise looking natural. I guess that’s inevitable, as I am particularly known for my natural- looking results and I therefore attract patients who want a natural-looking outcome. However, I’m hearing more than ever that they’re seeing acquaintances looking distorted and they really want to avoid this.
What were the most surprising trends or requests this year?
There’s an increasing awareness about the technical details of fillers. For example, I have had patients come in specifically concerned about avoiding migration of their lip filler. Patients didn’t used to know about this, but have become very well educated via social media. I welcome it; the more educated the patient, the better, I think.
What were your greatest lessons learned from the pandemic?
On a personal level, I found lockdown difficult, as I wasn’t able to work and earn an income, but I made the most of being home, spending time with my family, sleeping in, cleaning my cupboards and even publishing some clinical papers! It taught me to relax and smell the roses. I liked a less hectic pace of life. We also welcomed a puppy into our lives and realised the joy of being a dog-parent.
What are you most proud of this year?
On a professional level, probably getting back into presenting again after all the COVID conference cancellations. I was honoured to present at the dermatologists’ ASCD, the plastic surgeons’ ASAPS NSS, and Steven Liew’s AESTHETICS this year.
We won best international paper from Aesthetic Surgery Journal for our aspiration paper and I was a dissector and demonstrator at the very first Cadaver Dissection Workshop for injectors in NZ. It’s amazing to be learning and teaching with my colleagues in person again. I have really missed hugging them! It feeds my soul.
Do you think global economic uncertainty will put the brakes on demand for aesthetic procedures?
It’s so difficult to predict. We thought the GFC would reduce demand but that’s not what happened. The “lipstick effect”, when consumers still spend money on small indulgences during economic downturns, may kick in again. I certainly find patients prioritise their injectables spending. Feeling confident about your appearance seems to be more important than ever when times are harder.
What other challenges do you foresee in the coming year for the aesthetics industry?
I think it may be challenging for practitioners or clinics who rely on discounts to attract patients, rather than the quality of their results and service. Patients are getting savvier and realise that there’s great skill to providing these treatments. They see that poorly trained practitioners deliver poor results. We aren’t interchangeable robots, but skilled individuals whose training and artistry matters. People are seeking that out now.
What are you most excited about for 2023 and beyond?
I’m really excited to be teaching my Hart Lips technique to colleagues. It’s designed to give the safest and most natural-looking results possible and to avoid the dreaded lip filler migration! I’m so looking forward to sharing my tips. AMP
